You can judge a good deal about a restaurant
before you even crack the menu. As we sat down to dine at the Brooklyn Café, we immediately noticed that the mood of
the restaurant was vibrant and positive. The diners seemed to know each other and they knew the staff. Locals lined up for
tables, casually chatting with friends while they waited. Even though it was our first time there, we felt immediately like
a pair of regulars, the staff warm and inviting. The menu reads “contemporary neighborhood cuisine” and those
three words echoed exactly the vibe we were getting. Even if the food were merely average, the comfort level of the place
would be enough to attract a crowd. Lucky for the crowd, the Brooklyn Café’s food rivals its neighborhood appeal.
Our meal began with a huge grilled California artichoke, an item that seems virtually extinct on many menus these
days. The artichoke was blissfully tender with hints of smokiness from the grill, and served with a whole-grain-mustard
dipping sauce. The lobster bisque arrived with twin sidecars of sherry and oyster crackers and topped with lump crab meat.
The bisque was rich and velvety, reminiscent of a good she-crab soup. Other starters include hickory smoked salmon, shrimp
and vegetable fresco, and Miguel’s bruschetta with basil and house-made mozzarella. If you’re a salad lover, try
the fig and walnut salad tossed with a ratatouille vinaigrette and topped with Danish blue cheese.
There are many
restaurants that claim to have amazing crab cakes, but the Brooklyn Café has every right to brag. Constructed from
jumbo lump crab meat with no fillers and served with crisp green beans, the crab cakes will have you wishing you lived next
door. Jack’s Creole Chicken, Sausage, and Rice was delivered by the young man for which the dish is named. Jack is owner
Jeff Trump’s son who, along with his brother Sam, can be seen working beside their father, further contributing to the
family atmosphere of the Café. Jack’s favorite dish is comfort food at its finest; pulled chicken, Italian sausage
and Basmati rice in a glowingly warm Creole cream sauce. The Alaskan halibut was captivating, pan seared and tender, topped
with a sweet mango relish and served with sweet summer corn and a fat slice of ripe tomato with blue cheese. Excellent. Other
items include slow roasted short ribs, roasted pork tenderloin, shrimp tacos, and a Black Angus filet served with whipped
potatoes. Chef Mike Horosh changes the menu regularly so the place stays as fresh as the seasons.
If you want to
feel a part of the Sandy Springs neighborhood, you owe it to yourself to visit the Brooklyn Café. Make sure to introduce
yourself to the regulars. Chances are, you’ll soon be one, too.
The Brooklyn Café is located
at 220 Sandy Springs Circle, just across the street from Target. For more information, visit them online at http://www.brooklyncafe.com or call 404.843.8377.
Brooklyn Cafe Jumbo Lump Crab Cakes 1 pound fresh jumbo lump
crab meat, drained 1/3 cup aioli ¼ teaspoon creole seasoning ½ whole egg, beaten 1 teaspoon
finely chopped fresh parsley 1 to 2 teaspoons clarified butter
Preheat the oven to 300 degrees. In a bowl
combine crab meat, aioli, creole seasoning, egg and parsley and gently mix. Do not overwork the crab as it will break up into
pieces easily. Form into 4-ounce patties and refrigerate for at least one hour.
In a nonstick pan over medium-high
heat, add the butter. Add the crab cakes and cook until both sides are golden brown, turning just once. Transfer to the
oven for 90 seconds. Serve immediately
Aioli 1 clove garlic, minced 1 teaspoon kosher
salt 1 egg yolk Juice of ½ lemon ½ teaspoon Dijon mustard ¾ cup extra-virgin olive
oil 1 cup olive oil
In a blender, combine garlic, salt, egg yolk, lemon juice and mustard. With the motor
running, add the oils, 1 Tablespoon at a time until thickened.
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